The Essential Ingredient

Preserved anchovies have held their respected place in kitchens around the world since the days of the Roman Empire, due to their unique flavour and their versatility.

A small, salt-water fish, the anchovy is found in most temperate waters around the world, most famously the Mediterranean where they are caught by Spanish, Italian and northern African fishing operations.

While they are also eaten fresh- often prepared and served similarly to sardines or whitebait- it is cured that anchovies appear in most recipes.

The process of preserving anchovy fillets differs around the world, as does the use of the cured fish in food preparation. While many Southeast Asian cuisines utilise dried anchovy, it is the salted, pressed and aged fillet, preserved in oil, that is most synonymous with Mediterranean cooking.

Many classic recipes, such as the French remoulade and Italian puttanesca sauce, take advantage of the preserved anchovy’s dissolving properties to add a distinct, though not always ‘fishy’ flavour to dishes, without incorporating the texture of the fish itself.

Other uses, such as in Spanish tapas ‘Boquerones en Escabeche’, on Caesar Salad or as a pizza topping, rely on the uniquely delicate structure of the preserved fillet to add texture to the dish.

It is this versatility that sees anchovies playing such an important part in so many recipes.

While preserved anchovies are widely available in supermarkets and delis, quality can vary greatly. Good preserved anchovies should not have collapsed or crumbled in the jar or tin and should retain a rose-tint (evidence of a high-quality fish having been carefully prepared) with delicate flavour in tact.

There is simply no substitute for anchovies. While eating a full fillet on a cracker may be beyond some people, incorporating anchovies into other dishes is a great, subtle way of boosting flavour.

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Anchovy Tips

• The olive oil in which anchovies are preserved, particularly in a high-quality product, has many uses and should not be thrown away. Brush it on bruschetta, use it to flavour an aioli, sauté with it or incorporate it into a salad dressing (among many other uses).
• To reduce the saltiness of a preserved anchovy, some recipes suggest soaking in milk before use.
• ‘Anchovy’ is also the name of a traditional Swedish seasoning used in the preservation of other fishes, so ‘anchovy’ products from the area are likely to be made with sprats or herring.
• Any skin, scales or small bones remaining on a preserved anchovy fillet do not need to be removed, and can be eaten as is.
• Because of their unique flavours and properties, dried, preserved and fresh anchovies cannot be substituted for one another in recipes.

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Conservan Aranoa, a family-owned and operated business in the Cantabrian region of northern Spain for four generations, are renowned as one of the world’s highest quality producers of anchovies. Their traditional techniques for salting, pressing and ageing the anchovy fillets ensure the highest quality, and preserve the delicate flavour and pink-hue of the fish.

Aranoa anchovies are available at all The Essential Ingredient stores.

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